Alex and Christina's honey moon
Russia - Siberia - The Altay
24th August 2004 to 12th September 2004
Day 2: We went for
breakfast at a local restaurant then visited the museum. They had Stone Age
implements and relics and a skeleton from a similar epoch. There was a
reconstruction of a typical Altaian ‘aile’ home somewhat like a yurt, which had
different areas for the women, the men and the children. We saw stuffed animals
from the region we were visiting and hoped to see some live and in the wild. We
saw some space junk, pieces of space rockets and satellites that had been guided
to fall to Earth in this sparsely populated area. There were pictures of the
locals with some of it, clearly very proud!
The Gornoaltaysk Museum on 26/08/04
We were struck by how different
everything was. We were aware that we were entering a region very different from
our European home.
Russia is a country of two
halves. The European half is not so different from the rest of Europe. Since the
onset of perestroika in 1992, Western companies have made huge progress in
penetrating the Russian markets. McDonnalds, Coca Cola, Pepsi and Phillips
appear on neon signs everywhere you look. So many words are recognisable that
one cannot help but wonder what the Russians themselves think of it. When we
posed this question there was a split, those that were old enough to know the
Soviet regime felt a little uncomfortable about the changes, those who were in
their teens or younger when it happened were far more accepting of them and
welcomed the arrival of western culture and pop songs.
The other half of Russia is
Asian and we were about to get up close and personal with it.
Outside the Gornoaltaysk Museum on 26/08/04
We got back into our ex
military Ambulance. These vehicles were all over the place. They were
mechanically simple and robust. They ran on poor quality petrol. We use 95
octane fuel in the UK, these things ran on 80 octane.
We began our drive of another
400km on to Ust’-Koksa village, where the office of the Katunsky Nature Reserve
is located.
The road passes through all the
major landscapes of Altai (except for the alpine zone). We all managed to sleep
like babies for large periods of time.
The scenery gradually changed
as it opened out and the road surface got gradually worse.
We stopped for fuel on the way
to stretch our legs. We met a camel and watched the river for a while.
We crossed three mountain
passes and enjoyed wonderful panoramas. We passed a number of Altaian villages
where it was still possible to see traditional hexagonal yurts covered with
bark. The road got progressively worse until we left the tarmac behind and made
full use of the four wheel drive as we bounced through giant ruts across the
broken muddy remains of the road that was being completely rebuilt. We arrived
in Ust’-Koksa quite late and went for a meal in a local restaurant before going
to the hotel. There were some women drinking and dancing. They were on a hen
night as far as we could tell. The indications were that it was something to
avoid.
The restaurant had no milk for
the Girls to drink. In fact, there were a lot of things they didn’t have.
Tatiana couldn’t decide whether we would have breakfast there or in the hotel in
the morning. In the end, we had some nice food and decided not to come back for
breakfast. We got back in the van and went to find the hotel where we had our
first banya, which was a sort of steam bath in a hut at the bottom of the
garden. There was a sort of changing room with birch twigs, a hot room and a
very hot room. Christina said the birch twigs were to beat ourselves with. We
thought she was joking. We later found out that you dip them in the buckets of
cold water and splash yourself with them to bring your temperature down when you
can’t stick the heat any more. There was a water tank connected to the stove to
provide hot water.
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